The Two Sides of One Island: St. Maarten/St. Martin

by Chris Stine

Some say there are two sides to every story. And so it is with this tale. Its the story of a Caribbean island — St. Maarten/St. Martin — with two distinct personalities, but one common theme — if you want to have fun and boatloads of it, come here, where the excitement is nonstop year round. At 37 square miles in area, it is the smallest island in the world with the biggest appetite for fun and shared by two nations — Holland and France. St. Maarten is Dutch, while St. Martin is French.

Dutch territory of St. Maarten

The Dutch territory is slightly smaller (16 square miles), but what it lacks in size, it more than makes up for in excitement, especially if you’re looking for glittering nightlife, gaming, dancing, outstanding resorts, native shows and special events. But its attractions don’t stop there. Philipsburg is the capital of St. Maarten and is noted for its duty-free shopping. Stores along Front Street, adjacent to the placid waters of Great Bay, and Back Street one block away, sell everything from fine jewelry to locally made handicrafts and clothing.

Cruise ships call here in great numbers, docking at one of the most modern piers in the Caribbean, giving their guests an opportunity to soak up some vibrant Caribbean atmosphere — with a little European touch — the island likes to boast. The problem is, the cruise ships usually don’t stay overnight, depriving passengers of an opportunity to take part in an exceptional vacation experience.

There are more than enough hotels on both sides of the island for visitors who want to soak up the flavors of this Leeward Island. They range from lavish resorts like the Sonesta Maho Beach in Maho Bay, to small boutique hotels such as Holland House on Front Street in downtown. In between, there are family oriented hotels such as Oyster Bay Resort on the border between the Dutch and French side, and Great Bay, a newly remodeled resort right in Philipsburg. For many visitors, it seems more sensible to stay on the Dutch end of the island and sample the French-owned territory on day trips, though French hotels such as Grand Case, Le Meredien and L’Esplanade are very highly regarded.

In Marigot, the capital of St. Martin, you’ll find boutiques filled with the latest fashions from Paris, the finest in French perfumes, exquisite jewelry and, of course, many restaurants majoring in delectable French cuisine. Grand Case, just a few miles north of Marigot, is famed for its street of restaurants specializing in every kind of fare imaginable and prepared in a variety of ways.

On the Dutch side, there’s no better barbecue than Johnny’s Under the Tree, literally. This open-air eatery sits under a giant tree, and the ribs, chicken and lobster are slow cooked over a monster-sized grill by Johnny himself. Parking is at a premium, but find a spot no matter what it takes. You’ll understand why after you eat there.

Sailing on the Caribbean Sea

An especially good day to saunter over to Marigot is on Saturdays, when the market along the waterfront opens. It is jammed with vendors hawking everything from fruit to wooden carvings to island music. Scattered among all the trappings of booths and tables are locals cooking tempting barbecue chicken, fish and beef on outdoor grills the size of small Volkswagens. But even with all the activity on market day, French St. Martin is considered more laidback than St. Maarten.

There is a time, however, when both sides come together for one big party — the annual Heineken Regatta, held the first weekend in March. The sailing event that recently celebrated its 28th anniversary began with a few local sailors competing in an around-the-island race just for the fun of it. At the end of the race, a few Heineken beers were thrown at them to make the tropical sun bearable. From that small beginning with no more than 12 boats began a custom and tradition that’s a signature event in the Caribbean and a regatta second only to Antigua Sailing Week.

The difference, however, remains the same: a regatta whose dominant theme — and motto — is still “Serious Fun.” Make no mistake, there are still races held every day, with more than 260 boats in several classes competing in the three-day affair, but at the end of every day and into the wee hours, there is that commitment to serious fun! The after-race party on the first day is in Philipsburg at the new Boardwalk that was built beachside. This wide brick walkway plays host to several thousand revelers that includes yacht crews, visitors, islanders, musicians and VIPs. The Philipsburg waterfront rocks with bands that crank out reggae, rock ‘n roll, calypso and jazz. Even if you’re only a “people watcher,” you can’t help but get caught up in the frenzy.

Annual Heineken Regatta Race

The spectacle is repeated on the second night in Marigot, where the second leg of the races end. It’s virtually a carbon copy of the first night’s festivities — with a French twist. On the final night, the awards party is held on Kim Sha Beach in Simpson Bay on the Dutch side. The final evening’s entertainment is usually a big name act brought in by Heineken. Last year’s star was reggae legend Shaggy (aka Richard Burrell), a Jamaican- American reggae singer and international superstar. Performing the previous night was Alison Hinds, a Barbados native lovingly referred to as the “Queen of SOCA.

The regatta winds up with a spectacular fireworks show, bringing the crowd numbering more than 10,000 to one final crescendo.

If you find yourself in need of a few hours of relaxation, don’t fret. There are several outstanding beaches around the island where you can kick back and work on your tan. Some of the best are Cupecoy and Orient Bay.

St. Maarten/St. Martin gives you two memorable ways to vacation — for the price of one.